San Ignacio, Salta and Estancia Sayta

We left hot and sticky Puerto Iguazu and made our way back down south through Missiones to visit the well restored ruins of a Jesuit Mission in San Ignacio.

The Jesuits were a group of Christian Missionaries that came to the newly ‘discovered’ parts of South America to set up communities which allowed for the cultural cohesion of both the Christians and the Guarani, who were the indigenous people that inhabited this area of what is now Brazil, Paraguay and Argentina. The missions were mostly set up in the 17^th century and worked very productively and effectively all over this large area until the Spanish rulers perceived them as a threat and expelled the Jesuits to which they finally conceded and left around 1738.

The Missions were an interesting social experiment. They created living and working systems for both the Guarani and the Jesuits and had a clear hierarchy. The work and productivity was mostly based around the arts. The creation of sculpture, music, paintings etc culminated both cultures and created a new fusion. The Jesuits and the Missions also served to protect the Guarani from invading forces who wished to enslave the indigenous population and put them to service under the Spanish and Portuguese rulers.

What first struck me about this area as we arrived on the bus and wandered around the town of San Ignacio was the brilliant burnt red of the soil. It reminded me of the colour of the terrain in Australia. Not to mention the continued blazing of the sun and the unbelievable heat of the area. 

When we arrived at the ruins we looked around the fantastic museum which held artefacts, filmed testimonies, examples of stories and music of the Guarani and Jesuits. Then we wandered around the site of the Mission itself. The walls were the same brilliant red of the soil, with incredible carvings and sculpture on them, something they term ‘Guarani Baroque’. Due to the huge model of the layout of the Mission it was easy to see that in the ruins as we wandered around. All in all very interesting, not least to see a not so evil side of the effect the conquistadors had on the indigenous populations of the area.

Then we caught a bus headed to Salta for twenty hours or so. 

So our first stop was to try the famous empanadas that Salta is famous for, a particular type of empanada called a saltena. It has more sauce. We ate a LOT of them during our time in Salta. They were yum.

Salta differed greatly from other Argentinian cities we had been to. In fact it didn't feel like Argentina at all. Things were cheap, it was a really hectic place but the people were really relaxed and friendly. There is a huge and beautiful plaza that people just hang out in and we managed to find good coffee places to sit and people watch. We also visited a fascinating museum called Museo de Montana Alto which was really informative about Incan history and culture. The most fascinating part of the exhibits were the information and videos of the mountain children. That is to say the Incan child sacrifices that were buried at extremely high altitudes and therefore froze, perfectly preserving their bodies for centuries until mountaineers/archaeologists found them and (somewhat controversially, although preventing looting) removed them to the museum. They are studied at only fifteen minutes every month to find out more about the cultures and practices of the Incas. There are three children and they are rotated every month. We saw the Lightening Girl who had fallen asleep after being plied with chicha and in a procession she was walked to the top of the mountain. The children that were chosen were taken from wealthy and highly respected families. After she fell asleep she was buried in the mountain. It was so eerie seeing her. She was so so life like. It was if she was still sleeping. Our voices dropped to a whisper in the quiet, cold and dark room. She sat there crossed legged, we could see the skin on her legs as if she was still alive, her hands were placed on her lap and her head was slumped forwards. It was incredible to see her.

Some more saltenas brought us out of our stunned stillness!

Then it was time for our stay on an estancia (ranch) to go horse riding with the Gauchos (cowboys). We got picked up from out hostel and driven about 50km to Estancia Sayta. 'Todos es possible con Enrique'. Enrique met us as we drove into the estancia and with a twinkle in his eye urged us to have breakfast with the others that had arrived and were already there before us. Then we were up from the lovely long outside table and into our chaps for the first of our two three hour horse rides.

Here is Gaucho Gil. The length and breadth of Argentina by the roadside you will see miniature red huts, surrounded by red offerings. These are to Gaucho Gil who used to wear a red handkerchief around his forehead. The story goes that Gaucho Gil used to rob from the rich and give to the poor so he was a hero. But when the government was trying to rid the land of Gauchos (due to prejudices, them not paying taxes etc) he was captured and hung. As he was about to be hung he said to the Governor if you take my body to my home and bury me there then your children will recover and not die from their illnesses. The Governor, his children fit and healthy, scoffed and ordered his execution. Sure enough shortly afterwards his children did fall ill. So the Governor ordered Gaucho Gil's body be taken back to where he was born and miraculously the Governor's children recovered. Here he is. There are whole shops dedicated to offerings to him.

Sam's first horse! He was a dopey sort. Can you see the leaves hanging from his mouth? Well he kept them there the entire ride, occasionally refreshing them but always leaving some hanging out his mouth like a country bumpkin. Brilliant.

We crossed quite beautiful landscape and the horses were very safe and controlled. They were very well looked after, looking healthy and happy. However I didn't really relate to mine very well. He was a bit tired and didn't seem to have a personality. I was looking forwards to when we would be allowed to gallop! Except I was a bit disappointed with that too as the Gauchos did it alongside you, holding your reigns which meant that I felt pushed to one side, and he kept asking me questions as we were galloping. It was all I could do to keep upright what with all the sideways pushing, giggling and questioning! I would have much rather done it by myself as I had before. I felt that they were being a bit backwards with safety there. 

After our first ride we arrived back at the estancia to a huge feast. It was exceptional food, so many plates of delicious food that were meat free (for a cotton picking change in Argentina) and enough meat to more than please the carnivores. There was no stopping the delicious wine top ups either! Sam had to take to hiding his glass!! 

Somehow after all that food and drink we were into our chaps and atop our horses again ready for our second ride. This time, due to the boring and frankly dangerous way they hold your reigns, make you lean sideways and bark questions about your life at you as you're trying to stay upright, I was determined to gallop by myself. The chance came and I willed my horse to gallop, 'Ya! Ya!!' To my amazement he did! It was brilliant! I got to the other end and the Gauchos were not happy. Shaking their heads and fingers at me I feigned a 'what? It was the horse' but I gave it away as I couldn't stop smiling!! Unfortunately fate didn't like what I did either as shortly afterwards a Darth Vader like evil wasp came along and decided I was worth stinging seven times!! AND on the bum. They all swelled up and I started to feel quite weird by the time we got back. I was too full and absolutely knackered so after a lay down I just couldn't get up so I didn't. I slept through dinner which was a strange experience according to Sam. Enrique the main Gaucho lived up to all of the stereotypes as he guided everyone through a conversation that was so utterly caricatured it was text book. Meat, wine, women, the different words for vagina, 'saucy' joke after 'saucy' joke. All meanwhile not allowing anyone to say no to a wine top up so that everyone's glass remained full for the rest of the night. I sounded funny the morning after not having been through it myself but Sam said that everyone was mainly laughing in consternation! Funny. Todos is indeed possible con Enrique.